Our Hero says goodbye to the statue of John Rae, erected in the heart of Stromness on Sept. 30, 2013 to mark the explorer's 200th birthday. Yes, Rae lives on in the hearts of many. This statute will be the first thing you see when you get off the ferry from mainland Scotland, which is a great way to arrive.

Stromness offers plenty of excellent accommodation, but we recommend The Shed, run by Kathleen Ireland. It's cosy, self-catering, chock-a-block with amenities, and shows what a brilliant architect can do with a modest amount of space. (kathleenireland@btinternet.com) As for the extraordinary, 3-day conference on Rae, it ended last night with a banquet at the Stromness Hotel. The climactic event of the evening was a performance by renowned musician Jennifer Wrigley, who played what was once John Rae's fiddle. That moment I would characterize with a single word: magic.